Select Page


Salzburg, Austria: Dave told a friend at the track meet we were taking our after-college backpacking trip through Europe... just 40+ years behind schedule... and without backpacks... and no youth hostels... and with 1st class train tickets... with senior citizen rates. That pretty-much describes the rest of this European holiday. No serious set itinerary, but there is a train to somewhere every 10 minutes. Now that the meet is over in Budapest and we have had a bit of rest in Vienna, we can have ourselves a little adventure.

But one last strudel Vienna. Since Landtmann was just a few blocks from our hotel, we walked over again this morning and shared a strudel with coffees. They also brought us a much-needed bowl of fruit.

Landtmann strudel
This time, we had it with their famed vanilla cream sauce.

Then we caught a train to Salzburg, a pretty little town along the Salzach River. The town borders Germany and is know for salt from nearby mines, of course, and being the birthplace of Mozart. The setting for The Sound of Music is nearby. After checking into a hotel, we had time for a long walk through town to get our bearings. The weather was not cooperating with our plans for adventure.

Salzach River in Salzburg
Salzach River in Salzburg
Another view of the river in Salzburg - it runs very fast.
Pferdeschwemme - a place to wash your horse!

Our walk continued through the Old Town, looking at shops. Most are small and local, but H&M and Tommy Hilfiger were represented, along with McDonalds. One of our goals was to find a restaurant for dinner that did not offer wiener schnitzel (or I would probably order it).

Hotel Bristol
Hotel Bristol

We are at the Hotel Bristol, chosen only due to being able to stay here free with credit card/mileage points, but it was a very excellent choice. An ancient place, it still tries very hard to retain old world elegance. We noticed little linen mats placed bedside at turn-down service. (Yes, the Bristol still has turn-down service.) The lobby features a massive painting, Emperor Nero & The Burning of Rome by Hans Makart. There is a lot going on in this painting. Every time I pass it, there is something new to notice. Makart allegedly painted it for a hotel in Bad Ischl, but it was somehow found in a garage in Vienna in 1941 and brought to The Bristol... which happens to sit on Hans Makart Square in Salzburg. Random.

Emperor Nero & the Burning of Rome

After dressing for dinner, we stopped in the elegant bar off the lobby to find a bottle of Tanqueray gin. Alors! Had not seen one since Paris. I ordered a martini and it was perfect. Dave had a perfect Negroni. Life is good in Salzburg.

Martini & Negroni in the Sketch Bar in the Bristol Hotel
Sketch Bar in the Bristol Hotel in Salzburg, Austria
The Sketch Bar is filed with sketches!
Sketch Bar in Hotel Bristol, Salzburg
The bar has the most amusing cocktail napkins... my kind of woman.
(Lily Bollinger is another champagne house widow.)

We walked a few blocks to an Italian restaurant we had seen on our re-con mission earlier, and found a table on their terrace under an umbrella, that offered a blue fleece blanket on every chair. It did not rain during our entire meal, though it wasn't very warm. A warning to everyone that September is only two days away?

Vitello con Tonnato
Shared appetizer: Vitello con Tonnato -
cold sliced roasted veal with tuna sauce.

Di Renzi restaurant specializes in prosciutto, but mostly offer pasta dishes. Dave had his usual aglio olio and I ordered house-made penne with basil and mozzarella.

Obviously, Di Renzi are really into little lacy fried cheese crackers on top of EVERY DISH. Our meals were pretty-much outstanding, and we were happy with our choice. Happily, only a few steps back to our warm and cozy bed... well... we are in Europe - we have twin beds pushed together, and individual duvets.

Pedometer: still had 10,000 on a travel day, so I am happy.

Until my next update, I remain, your salty correspondent.

Salzburg Tourism Office

One thought

  1. I’m so enjoying post college backpacking through Europe with you. It’s been many years since we were there, but you’re taking me back, first class!

Comments are closed.