Near Kooskia, Idaho: We had a quiet Saturday, recovering from a long hot day on the river Friday. We didn't do much as the air quality went to poop overnight. We spent the afternoon planning our trip east. There was some discussion on unhooking everything to drive to a grocer, but why? I went on-line and had everything we needed delivered within an hour. So much easier, and enjoying a "city" perk while the gettin' was good.
We have been watching with interest the river cruise ships in this port. Doing a bit of Googling, it seems this ship is on an itinerary that begins in Alaska and picks up here two days later. I'm no sailor, but could not figure how a non-ocean-going vessel could get from Alaska to miles up the Columbia/Snake River in two days. Turns out this itinerary is two days in a Glacier Bay hotel, then a flight to Lewiston, Idaho? Then passengers board the American Harmony and cruise the river to Portland via Astoria. Please, someone explain this to me.
This ship was docked across the river from us for over 24 hours. Maybe changing crew? Maybe prepping for new passengers? Lading provisions? This morning, the Harmony was gone and a different ship with a paddle wheel was at the dock behind our campsite.
Also in port was a massive barge loading on grain. Probably wheat, as harvest is underway.
Saturday dinner was prepped just after breakfast. A Spanish-inspired potato salad with olive oil, a bit of Japanese mayo (Kewpie mayo is made with only egg yolk) and a splash of Spanish sherry vinegar. It was served with a tin of tuna in olive oil, minced boiled egg, tomato and cucumber. I forgot to add the green olives.
DT tried to stay awake as he continues on his quest to catch-up with the Tour de France. The final day's course has been shortened due to lack of fire/police services - French firefighters and first responders are too busy with huge wildfires in France. It's not just us who are suffering with smoke and fire.
So we had an early night, but around 1a someone decided it would be so much fun to race a jet ski at 5000 miles per hour up and down in front of the RV park. Then I couldn't get back to sleep, and Dave slept through the whole show! I was still awake early (though groggy) and we hit the road east before 10a.
Our first stop of the day was just across the Snake River (so we are in Idaho now) to the Lewis and Clark Discovery Center in Hells Gate State Park. Since we were out-of-state, we had to pay $14 (per car) to enter the park. The park has a campground, and many areas for beach access. We only wanted to see the Lewis & Clark Discovery Center.
Truth be told, there are several Lewis & Clark sites along their route from St. Louis, Missouri to Astoria, Oregon. This center is about a five-out-of-ten, but we are following the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway on Highway 12 from Lewiston to Lolo Pass, so we stopped.
Next we stopped to the Nez Perce National Historical Park, a bit down Highway 12 from Lewiston. This site shows the Nez Perce view of the Lewis & Clark Corp of Discovery and tells the story of Sacagawea in more detail.
Sacagawea was Shoshone, kidnapped as a child, and was taken (with several other young children) to South Dakota and kept by the Hidatsa tribe. A French-Canadian trapper/guide/translator, Toussaint Charbonneau, bought her. (I just for the life of me cannot figure out how a 12 year old girl would be of any help to a trapper/guide/translator in the middle of the mountains, unless if he wanted "companionship" - and of course - they had a baby right away. Fun times!) Lewis and Clark hired Charbonneau, and his wife and child came along for the wild ride to the Pacific Ocean. Sacagawea was as much help as her husband, as she spoke several native languages and there is one story where L&C were in a stare-down with a chief and Sacagawea recognized someone in the party as her brother! Whew! Lives saved. No one really knows much about this interesting woman, except she ended up having two children and died at age 24(ish). After the death of his wife, Charbonneau gave the care of his children to William Clark. It is believed the second child (a girl, Lisette) died as a child, but the boy, Jean Baptiste, known as Pomp, was educated by Clark in St. Louis and then in Europe. Pomp traveled through the Continent and learned many European languages before returning to America to work as a guide and interpreter. It is believed Pomp died in 1866 in Oregon, and is buried in Jordan Valley Hamlet Cemetery, Danner, Oregon. (All of the above paragraph is subject to who knows.)
If you only have time to visit one of the two centers, opt for the Nez Perce National Historical Park. So much more detail about the tribe, with basket weaving and food gathering displays, and not that much about Lewis & Clark. (Sorry, Meriwether.)
After visiting the Lewis and Clark Discovery Center we really entered the Northwest Scenic Byway. The Clearwater River is - guess what - still clear after more than 200 years. This is one of the most beautiful drives in America and very popular with motorcyclists.
We stopped again at Canoe Camp near Orofino. Lewis and Clark stumbled into the spot, starving and exhausted after crossing the Bitterroot Mountains. The Nez Perce showed the Corp of Discovery how to make canoes from Ponderosa pines that could carry them onto the Columbia River. The Corp of Discovery spent 10-12 days with the tribe, and the natives helped carve the canoes and also fed them until they actually became ill from too much salmon and meat. After building the boats and recovering their gut-health, the corp continued their adventure - leaving some of their gear and all of their horses for the tribe to watch until they returned on their eastern trek. The websites promised a replica canoe, but none was visible today.
Next stop...
Our next stop was to the Heart of the Monster. Dave and I visited the monster's heart over 25 years ago! Such an interesting story about how the coyote captured the Heart of the Monster.
on the side of a highway.
We continued until we we were ready to stop for the night. There was a campground on Highway 12, Three Rivers RV Resort, near Kooskia, so we pulled-in and they had an opening on the (Lochsa) river. (The other two rivers are the Selway and Middle Fork of the Clearwater.) This resort has very nice rental cabins, RV sites, a pool, and a bar/restaurant. They have wifi, but only for text messaging. We were happy for Elon tonight, as DT was able to see the final stage of the Tour de France.
Whew.
On one of our stops today, I put two boneless skinless chicken thighs (chopped) in the slow cooker with a parmesan rind, a sprig of fresh rosemary, half a chopped onion, one chopped carrot, 4 sliced garlic cloves, and a cup of chicken stock. (It bubbled in the sink while we continued east.) When we arrived to our campsite, I added half a can of cannellini beans. There was some salt and pepper involved.
Our appetizer tonight was an homage to Lenny. I made his famous onion dip (because there was a partially-used envelope of dip mix in my pantry when we left home). Used a bit of sour cream and garnished it all with black pepper and fried onions.
We had a long day. My Driver is already snoring. We plan to continue east tomorrow, and Dave has a few things planned for my amusement.
Until my next update, I remain, your Idaho correspondent.
Campground Information: Three River Resort