Paris, France: Rudely, our grandchildren need to be at school next week, so our European tour ends tomorrow. After our day of rest yesterday (where we really didn’t rest at all), today we had tickets to the d’Orsay Museum and the l’Orangerie Museum - across the Seine from each other.
Breakfast was served at home. Baguette & Butter and strawberries. No hot chocolate at all.
We walked to the Musée d’Orsay, but the building is under a refresh/remodel so the entrance is not where it has always been. Happily we stumbled upon this temporary entrance as we approached the building. Visitors with timed tickets (us) get to walk right in, and avoid the hordes outside (nearer) the old entrance area. This was dumb luck, and it had us directly at the entrance to the temporary Renoir exhibit, so we saw that first, after walking through the lower level.
But first I asked the children about the building. The Louvre was first a palace, what was this museum building first used as? They both figured immediately it was a train station. Can you even imagine being alive to see this as a train station? Such a gorgeous building.
Also there is a statue of St. John the Baptist as a Child, 1878, by Jules Lafrance. John was holding a cross in his left hand, but the cross has not survived over time.
saw a resemblance. Leo had a head of curls as a toddler.
Painted by Renoir in 1876, this was his most complicated painting to date. It was painted outdoors in the Moulin de la Galette park in the Montmartre area of Paris.
This was the “reception” room in the train station (for dignitaries).
We continued touring through the museum, though I didn’t snap many photos. Seriously difficult to even see much due to all the crowds. The first time we visited this museum, years ago, we just walked up and bought a ticket and went inside. No crowds. Now, a ticket must be purchased weeks in advance. I don’t like to plan ahead that much, but that has been the deal with everything we have needed a ticket for over the past two weeks.
Speaking of planning, I had left plenty of time for a nice lunch between museums. One of us Leo, needs to eat often! Meal skipping is not a thing, so we walked a few blocks away from the museum and found a restaurant not filled with tourists (except us, of course) and had a nice lunch. We started with Duck Rillettes to share - a spread made with shredded duck confit, herbs and a ton of butter.
Leo had a cheese & herb omelet with salad. DT had a chicken club sandwich. Lucy and I split fish & chips… because we both love fish & chips.
After lunch we crossed the river over the Léopold-Sédar-Senghor Bridge. A statue of Thomas Jefferson (US Ambassador to France) stands on the left bank of the Seine at this bridge. (Too cloudy today for a good photo, but believe me, he looked outstanding.) At this point, the temperature had climbed to over 50 degrees. We were only wearing three layers!
Even though we had timed l’Orangerie tickets for 2:30p, we had to wait outside with masses of fellow tourists for nearly 30 minutes before being admitted. Then through metal detectors, and our bags were x-rayed. There were a few other exhibits to view, but we had probably over-arted our teen-ish grandchildren enough.
The Orangerie was actually once an orangerie - a massive greenhouse for growing citrus, etc., over the winter. One hundred years ago, France built special oval rooms to house Monet’s famed Waterlilies. Our grandchildren knew of Monet’s Waterlilies though, and were happy to see the eight massive canvases so beautifully displayed. (BTW: this was the first time Dave and I had seen the waterlilies ourselves.)
It is such an amazing feat of art, genius, and engineering to have these canvases displayed for all to see. And by all, I think every person in the entire world was in this room today. My iPhone’s “erase stuff” option was engaged to clear this photo! Sadly, Monet wanted the two rooms to be a place of quiet reflection. Trust me, no one was quiet and no one was reflecting.
This may be a good time to explain why we did not take the children to the Louvre, nor the Eiffel Tower: they have been previously with their parents.
Okay, enough art, let’s head back to our hotel, and get some ice cream in the Tuileries Garden:
We began our trek back to Saint Germain along the right bank of the river, walking towards the Louvre. There are a ton of junky tourist shops in this area. Lucy loves to look, but rarely parts with her euros.
Eiffel Tower and the Musée d’Orsay in the distance.
We finally reached our apartment seven hours after we left this morning. Must admit, this WAS the warmest day, but when we left the l’Orangerie, it was cold again. The sky was black and by the time we reached our apartment, it was sprinkling. Why???
When we left again for dinner, the temperature had only dropped to 52, but with the misty rain (umbrellas were seen), it was just dang cold. Dave and I had saved the Best for Last - the same restaurant we visited during our last trip to Paris, Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. This is a steak restaurant with no menu, because they serve only one thing: steak. One type of sliced steak, in slabs, with French fries and a herb sauce over the beef. They first serve a lettuce salad with walnuts. That’s it. There is a wine list and about eight desserts. Other than the wine and sweets, there is nothing but beef. We knew Our Carnivore would just eat this place up (pun intended), so we walked over about 8p.
And found it completely closed for Good Friday.
Rat Farts.
There was nothing to do but go next door to Cafe de Flore, another touristy cafe, where we ended up having a very nice (and light, because they serve nothing heavy) meal. Lucy and I had quiche. Leo had beef carpaccio (noticing a trend where Leo likes his beef raw?) and DT ordered scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. Very good food and a very fun evening on the corner near our apartment.
Our last night in Paris. Nothing to do but pack our bags and head to the airport in the morning. These two weeks flew by so fast. Tonight at dinner, we asked the kids what they enjoyed most in every country.
Amsterdam: Lucy - Anne Frank. Leo - the boat ride.
Brussels/Bruges: Lucy and Leo liked the chocolate and fries! (Best fries of the trip.)
Paris: Not surprising, Disneyland won, but both kids loved Oliver Gee’s Marais tour, and pushing the boats with stick in the Luxembourg Garden.
I will update again once we are back in California.
PEDOMETER: 17,821. Nearly seven miles. I swear when I get home, I’m taking one full day off from walking.
Until my next update, I remain, your I think we will fly to sunny California tomorrow correspondent.
LINKS:
Musée d'Orsay
Musée de l'Orangerie